Hair consists of 97% of a protein called Keratin. Keratin has a high percentage of negatively-charged amino acids. Hair conditioners contain positively-charged molecules called cationic surfactants. Shampoo and other cleaners contain surfactants as well, ones that are anionic (means having a negative electric charge), which is why they are very effective at removing dirt, but also the natural oils and positive charges from the hair.

These positively-charged surfactants in hair conditioners bond with the negative charges in your hair, which is why they do not rinse out completely with water. They coat the hair with a thin film, which adds weight to it and makes it easier to comb, thus reducing frizz.

Myth #1: Olive Oil is a Good Conditioner

This one is not completely untrue, but it usually isn’t explained correctly and it isn’t as effective as some people would have you believe. The truth is olive oil can cause breakouts on your scalp, it can clog the pores, and it can’t erase much of the damage that your hair has suffered.

If you do want to try olive oil, here is how:

1. Warm up two tablespoons of olive oil. It should be warm to the touch but not scalding, warm oil penetrates the skin better.
2. Massage the oil into your hair. Focus on your scalp first, then begin to massage down to the tips. Use extra care when doing this because if you massage aggressively you can cause more frizz and split ends.
3. Wrap your hair in a towel and wait for 30 minutes, then rinse the oil with a mild shampoo.

Only do this treatment about once a week, as it can cause more damage than benefit if you do it too often. Some people find this treatment a little unreliable, and frankly, too much work for the results. Using mashed avocado is possibly more effective that olive oil, and cheaper.

Myth #2: Hair Conditioners Are a Waste of Money

Just like you use face cream and body lotion to moisturize, your scalp needs the same for healthy hair. You need to look for a conditioner that focuses on moisturizing your scalp and hair, while shampoo should focus on your scalp.

Forget about the labels they put on shampoo bottles, don't worry if it is for coloured hair or sensitive hair only. Look at the ingredients; don’t freak out if you see citric acid or acidifiers. Conditioners are usually mildly acidic; this is because keratin has negatively charged amino acids. The low pH helps give a positive charge, thus more hydrogen bonds between the keratin scales giving the hair a more compact structure.

What To Do?

There are different types of conditioners, and the trick is to get the right one.

‘Pack’ conditioners are the heavy and creamy ones. These are the ones used when hair is damaged, and they are left in the hair for a long time in order to glue the split ends to repair the damage. These should be avoided if your hair is not considerably damaged.

Leave-in conditioners are the lighter than the 'pack' conditioners and they add little weight to the hair. These are a better alternative since they wash out, but you can still reap the benefits when your hair is dry and styled.

Ordinary conditioners are a balance between pack and leave-in conditioners.

'Hold’ conditioners act as a conditioner and a mousse to “hold” the hair in place. It is best to go for ordinary conditioners and leave-in ones, and avoid ones that contain sulphates or are highly acidic.

Another trick is to use leave-in conditioner in the shower. After you shampoo your hair, massage in some of the leave-in conditioner and wait a few minutes, then rinse it out. It is as effective as ordinary conditioner, but it washes out completely so you don’t have to worry about it weighing down your hair when you style it.

To Condition or Not To Condition?

So now that you have some background information on what hair conditioners actually do, you can determine which ones you need to get, if any at all, and what not to look for when making that decision.